The
installation of your ATF Transmission & Torque Converter is not always as
easy as it looks. Therefore, we strongly recommend that you read these
instructions and follow them carefully so that you avoid any unnecessary
problems due to improper installation.
STEP
1: After you have taken the torque
converter out of the box, take a minute to make sure that it is correct for
your application. To do this, hold the converter onto the flex plate to check
that the converter pilot fits properly into the rear of the crank shaft with no
excess clearance. Check to make sure that the bolt holes or the studs on the
converter line up with the bolt pattern of the flex plate.
STEP
2: After you check the converter
for fitment to the flex plate and crankshaft, check the flex plate itself for
cracks or excessive wear on the starter teeth if not new. It would be a shame
to go through the trouble of removing the transmission and not replacing the
flex plate if necessary. We strongly recommend that you replace your stock flex
plate with a heavy duty flex plate.
NOTE: Always check the starter bendix gear if the used flex
plate is found to have wear or teeth damaged. Starter would need to be replaced
at this time as well.
STEP
3: Prior to installing the converter
into the transmission, pour approx. 1 quart of transmission fluid into the
converter. Using a light grease such as white lithium, coat the transmission
seal, front pump bushing and converter neck or hub.
STEP
4: Install the neck or hub of the
torque converter into the front pump of the transmission, carefully trying not
to damage the front seal and bushing. Once you are into the pump, support the
pilot of the converter with one hand to center the converter and rotate the
front mounting pads in a clockwise direction. This will allow the splines and
hub slots or (flats in case of Ford type) to engage into the transmission pump.
At this point, use a white lithium
grease or equivalent and grease the torque converter pilot, and crank shaft pilot
hole so that the converter slides into the crank without binding up.
NOTE: The Torque Converter sits about 1” Inch into the
Transmission when fully installed. It does not sit flush with the Face of the
Transmission! Do Not Install Transmission until the Torque Converter is all the
way in!!!!
STEP
5: Before installing the
transmission onto the engine, make sure that the back of the engine has dowel
pins. They need to be free of rust, and that the dowel holes in the
transmission are free of dirt or corrosion. Grease both lightly to avoid any
type of bind up.
NOTE: If you are using a mid-plate, make sure that your
dowel pins are long enough. In case of a 1/8 inch (.125) mid-plate, stock
engine dowel pins should be suffice. Anything thicker than a 1/8 inch (.125)
mid-plate, purchase and install longer dowel pins.
STEP
6: Position the transmission onto
the engine dowel pins and install transmission mounting bolts. The transmission
housing should contact the engine block squarely. If it does not, LOOK FOR THE REASON. DO NOT attempt to draw the
transmission against the block with the bolts. The converter is probably
not all of the way into the transmission and can cause damage to either or both
the transmission & torque converter.
STEP
7: After the transmission housing
bolts are tight, check to see if the converter can turn freely without much
force (except Ford converter applications with studs). Next, push the converter
into the transmission front pump as far as possible. Then using a ruler or scale,
measure the distance between the converter pad and the flex plate. The Torque
Converter needs to have a .150-.180” gap to allow movement of the torque
converter. So for example the total gap measurement is .500”. You have to
subtract .150”-.180” from this .500”, this will give you a spacer height that
needs to be .320” to fill the gap. This ensures proper spacing without damaging
the front pump of the transmission. Using the flat washers or spacers, remove
any additional space between the converter and flex plate.
NOTE: In case of Ford applications with studs, measure from
end of stud to flex plate. Tighten converter nuts and measure again. The
difference should be within the tolerance.
STEP
8: Finish the installation of the
transmission. With most transmissions, before the engine is started, pour 4-5
quarts of transmission fluid into the transmission. Start the engine,
immediately upon start up and add two more quarts of transmission fluid.
Continuing slowly adding transmission fluid while having someone shifting the
transmission through the gears to get fluid throughout all the passages and
until it is properly filled.
Step
9: Transmission temperatures are
critical to the life of your transmission.
The ideal operating temperature range for the Transmission is 160 Degrees
to 200 Degrees. Temperature readings can be had by either running a gauge off
the bottom cooler line or from the transmission pan itself.
Filling
the Transmission with Fluid (8” or 9”
Torque Converter)
Powerglide W/O Deep Pan -----------7-8 Quarts
Powerglide W/ Deep Pan -------------9 -10
Quarts
Turbo 350 W/O Deep Pan-------------7-8 Quarts
Turbo 350 W/ Deep Pan --------------9-10
Quarts
Turbo 400 W/O Deep Pan ------------7-8 Quarts
Turbo 400 W/ Deep Pan --------------9-10
Quarts
Cooler
Lines: The
Pressure Line is the BOTTOM cooler Line. Return Line is the TOP cooler line on
all GM and Ford Transmissions
POWERGLIDE
Band Adjustment: Loosen locking nut using a 9/16 or 11/16 wrench. With
a 7/32” Allen Wrench and Torque handle, tighten adjusting screw to 72 inch lbs.
in a clockwise motion. Back off 3 1/4 to 3 3/4 turns and lock jam nut to 25
foot lbs.
DANGER DO NOT HIT THE TRANS BRAKE BUTTON WHILE
MOVING. IMMEDIATE TRANSMISSION FAILURE AND POSSIBLE CRASH AND INJURY TO
YOURSELF!!!!!
Note: Powerglide and TH400 Trans brake Connections have to
be properly checked and made sure actuating correctly. If this is not done
possibility of transmissions not having Reverse or Trans brake will be the
result.
Couple Tips to be aware of:
Vent
Lines: Do Not Run a Vent Line
from the transmission vent all the way to the back of the car. This will cause
the transmission to have a vapor lock and prevent the transmission from being
filled properly. Best option is to run a vented 1 quart canister within 18”-20”
of the transmission vent. Do not use the brass type vents.
Vehicles
with Lokar Dipstick Tubes: They
have to be ran so the tube is as straight as possible. It cannot have any kinks
or dips otherwise fluid readings will be incorrect causing premature
transmission failures.
Vehicles
with Improper Grounds: This cannot be overlooked. Vehicles with
improper grounds can make small arc welds inside the pump bushings against the
torque converter hub. This will ruin both the transmission pump and the torque
converter hub and cause both to have to be rebuilt. Ground wires must be run
properly to ensure this does not happen. Also included is slow starting
vehicles or low battery charges. These are all culprits of this and cause
transmission failures.
Shifter
Adjusting & Shifter Cable Routing: Always set shifter adjustments
by setting the shifter itself in High Gear and the transmission in High Gear
first. Never start setting the shifter in Park or Neutral. When checking the
adjustment through the gears make sure the shifter cable pin can come out of
the shifter arm on the transmission without any tension. Having an improper
setting is detrimental to the life of the transmission. Also detrimental is not
having the shifter cable itself mounted to the transmission pan rail. It is
imperative that it is not mounted to the vehicles chassis or body of the
vehicle.
Lastly Always Check the Transmission Pan Bolts when installation is complete and also periodically. This will prevent any leaks and premature transmission failures from vehicles who have ran low on fluid.
